The Borromeo Heritage on Lake Maggiore
By Richard Zahra
‘Undertaken with great passion, our arduous project was fuelled by the desire to enable
the general public to enjoy and appreciate this private patrimony,’
Princess Bona Borromeo
Introduction to The Borromeo Islands and the Angera Fortress Guidebook
the general public to enjoy and appreciate this private patrimony,’
Princess Bona Borromeo
Introduction to The Borromeo Islands and the Angera Fortress Guidebook
Walking up along successive terraces, the gardens gradually unfold to their full extent. The Teatro Massimo, a focal monument animated by marble sculptures within niches and white granite obelisks, is capped by an imposing sculpture of Unicorn ridden by Honour, the heraldic emblem of the Borromeo family. Flights of steps on both sides lead to the Belvedere, where visitors can enjoy a breathtaking 360-degree sweep of lake, mountain and urban panoramas. Just below, the Garden of Love, with its four massive yew trees, Celtic-knot hedges and central pond draped with water lilies, completes the idyll.
Isola Madre, the largest of the Borromean Islands, lies close to the coast of Pallanza. Its rich green cover gives it a wild aspect. The 16th century palace, opened for public viewing in 1978, was furnished with pieces taken from other Borromeo properties including tapestries, furniture and paintings. It also houses an eclectic collection of antique theatre puppets.
Close by lies the Borromeo sepulchral chapel, built on the island during the second half of the 19th century. In 2004, the high-profile marriage ceremony of Jaki Elkann, grandson of the late Gianni Agnelli and heir to the Fiat empire, and Countess Lavinia Borromeo Arese Taverna, was held in this chapel.
The eight-hectare botanical park on Isola Madre, designed in the 19th century, houses rare and exotic plants brought from all over the world. Free-roaming peacocks, parrots and pheasants add to the exotic flavour.
Some illustrious visitors have shown a marked preference for Isola Madre’s wild character over Isola Bella’s formal gardens.
‘Isola Madre is a paradise on earth,’ wrote the French author Gustave Flaubert in 1845.
Angera Castle, or more correctly, Rocca Borromea d’Angera, perches on a limestone crag to dominate the southern tip of Lake Maggiore. In conjunction with its twin stronghold on the opposite shore at Arona, which was dismantled by Napoleon in 1800, the castle controlled water traffic along the lake. The fortress was bought by the Borromeo family from the Visconti rulers in 1449 and has remained in their possession, save for a few odd years, ever since.
‘I know no place so pathetic, and yet so impressive, in its decay,’ wrote Samuel Butler, a British 19th century travel writer, of Angera castle.
No trace of decay remains today.
‘This castle is a rare example of medieval fortress preserved almost intact in its original state,’ said Signorina Rossella Mazzola, manager of the castle, as she accompanied me to the courtyard to give me an idea of the layout. ‘Various sections of the castle, such as the Castellana Tower, and the Scaligera, Visconti and Borromeo wings, represent different phases in the castle’s development and the occupancy of different lords.’
The castle is packed with curiosities. The fermentation room shelters a gigantic 17th century wooden screw press for squeezing grapes, whilst an exhibition depicting different types of medieval gardens can be followed in the Scaligera wing. San Carlo’s Hall is furnished with a large four-poster bed that reputedly belonged to the celebrated saint.
Isola Madre, the largest of the Borromean Islands, lies close to the coast of Pallanza. Its rich green cover gives it a wild aspect. The 16th century palace, opened for public viewing in 1978, was furnished with pieces taken from other Borromeo properties including tapestries, furniture and paintings. It also houses an eclectic collection of antique theatre puppets.
Close by lies the Borromeo sepulchral chapel, built on the island during the second half of the 19th century. In 2004, the high-profile marriage ceremony of Jaki Elkann, grandson of the late Gianni Agnelli and heir to the Fiat empire, and Countess Lavinia Borromeo Arese Taverna, was held in this chapel.
The eight-hectare botanical park on Isola Madre, designed in the 19th century, houses rare and exotic plants brought from all over the world. Free-roaming peacocks, parrots and pheasants add to the exotic flavour.
Some illustrious visitors have shown a marked preference for Isola Madre’s wild character over Isola Bella’s formal gardens.
‘Isola Madre is a paradise on earth,’ wrote the French author Gustave Flaubert in 1845.
Angera Castle, or more correctly, Rocca Borromea d’Angera, perches on a limestone crag to dominate the southern tip of Lake Maggiore. In conjunction with its twin stronghold on the opposite shore at Arona, which was dismantled by Napoleon in 1800, the castle controlled water traffic along the lake. The fortress was bought by the Borromeo family from the Visconti rulers in 1449 and has remained in their possession, save for a few odd years, ever since.
‘I know no place so pathetic, and yet so impressive, in its decay,’ wrote Samuel Butler, a British 19th century travel writer, of Angera castle.
No trace of decay remains today.
‘This castle is a rare example of medieval fortress preserved almost intact in its original state,’ said Signorina Rossella Mazzola, manager of the castle, as she accompanied me to the courtyard to give me an idea of the layout. ‘Various sections of the castle, such as the Castellana Tower, and the Scaligera, Visconti and Borromeo wings, represent different phases in the castle’s development and the occupancy of different lords.’
The castle is packed with curiosities. The fermentation room shelters a gigantic 17th century wooden screw press for squeezing grapes, whilst an exhibition depicting different types of medieval gardens can be followed in the Scaligera wing. San Carlo’s Hall is furnished with a large four-poster bed that reputedly belonged to the celebrated saint.
The Sala di Giustizia (Law Court) is an outstanding example of early medieval architecture and décor. A cycle of frescoes retell Ottone Visconti’s bold exploits and his rise to power. Above the historic cycle, like a parallel film strip, the anonymous artist depicted the occurrence of each event within a timeline symbolized by zodiacal figures. The vaulted ceiling is decorated in geometric motifs coloured so vividly that they give the impression that they were only painted yesterday.
A flight of steps leads up to the Castellana Tower, and from its top floor you can enjoy some of the best panoramas that Lake Maggiore can offer. On the opposite shore, you’ll see the sprawling Arona cityscape, its terracotta roofs standing out against the blue water and the dark green woods behind. The writer Stendhal described this stretch as, ‘the delightful shores of one of the loveliest lakes on earth.’ On the high ground to the city’s right stands San Carlo’s colossal statue, affectionately known as Il San Carlone.
In addition, Rocca d’Angera houses the largest collection of antique dolls, toys and automatons in Europe. By viewing the vast collection, you can follow the technical evolution of dolls and toys in Europe and get a glimpse of changing social attitudes that influenced the dolls’ designs. Dolls come in all shapes and sizes and depict people from all walks of life - newborns, children, young aristocratic women, common people, celebrities and even priests and nuns.
Rocca Borromea d’Angera, Isola Bella and Isola Madre despite being so different are inevitably tied by a common thread that leads to the Borromeo family, whose fate is deeply rooted in the waters of one of Italy’s most remarkable lakes. Visiting these three delightful sites in turn, you will embark on a time-travel trip across the medieval, Baroque and early modern eras that have infused Lake Maggiore with their flavour. The journey is also a tangible experience in which you can appreciate the splendour of Lake Maggiore in all its aspects.
A flight of steps leads up to the Castellana Tower, and from its top floor you can enjoy some of the best panoramas that Lake Maggiore can offer. On the opposite shore, you’ll see the sprawling Arona cityscape, its terracotta roofs standing out against the blue water and the dark green woods behind. The writer Stendhal described this stretch as, ‘the delightful shores of one of the loveliest lakes on earth.’ On the high ground to the city’s right stands San Carlo’s colossal statue, affectionately known as Il San Carlone.
In addition, Rocca d’Angera houses the largest collection of antique dolls, toys and automatons in Europe. By viewing the vast collection, you can follow the technical evolution of dolls and toys in Europe and get a glimpse of changing social attitudes that influenced the dolls’ designs. Dolls come in all shapes and sizes and depict people from all walks of life - newborns, children, young aristocratic women, common people, celebrities and even priests and nuns.
Rocca Borromea d’Angera, Isola Bella and Isola Madre despite being so different are inevitably tied by a common thread that leads to the Borromeo family, whose fate is deeply rooted in the waters of one of Italy’s most remarkable lakes. Visiting these three delightful sites in turn, you will embark on a time-travel trip across the medieval, Baroque and early modern eras that have infused Lake Maggiore with their flavour. The journey is also a tangible experience in which you can appreciate the splendour of Lake Maggiore in all its aspects.