Flåm, Norway – Gateway to the Longest Fjord in the World
by Richard Zahra
The building of a new quay for cruise liners has turned Flåm into an important destination for cruises sailing along Sognefjord that is the world’s longest and deepest fjord.
If you are intent on enjoying nature at its best, then Flåm is a goldmine. Most tourists catch the Flåmsbana railway at Myrdal, go down to Flåm, and then board a ferry or cruise to some other part of Norway, missing out on the beautiful country that shelters Flåm. Why not go against the trend and follow the train trip against the tourist tide? Board the Flåmsbana at the bottom of the valley from Flåm and enjoy the steep ascent to Myrdal. As the train starts off in a slow rumbling ascent along Flåmsdale, you will see quaint, colourful timber houses, nestled on the meadows at the bottom of the valley. The frothy waters of the river add a perfect touch to this idyll. Crane your neck and you will glimpse the lofty peaks, veiled in shawls of white, tufty clouds.
The train’s horn sounds like an animal call echoing through the high-walled valley. Its smooth pace will enable you to tuck in as much of the scenery as you could possibly digest. There is enough of it to numb the senses. Lofty, ice-capped peaks; sheer, tree-clad mountainsides; raging streams; gushing waterfalls – it is a place where nature has concentrated enough of its wild beauty to stun the most discerning visitor.
The journey will take your through a number of tunnels hewn into the mountainsides. Each time the train pops out from a tunnel, you will realise that you are one step closer to the peak. If you happen to notice a tiny train station perched atop one of these peaks, you can rest assured that Myrdal station is close by.
When the train comes to a sudden halt, you’ll be in for a surprise. Disembark upon the wooden viewing platform and you’ll have a close encounter with Kjosfossen waterfall. It is nature at its most powerful. Tons of water plummet every second down a sheer drop of ninety-three metres, to shatter on the rocks below. The water roars louder than an aeroplane engine and colossal clouds of spray fume out of the gurgling waters to envelop you in a cool cloud.
From Kjosfossen the train winds its way up to slide smoothly into Myrdal station, a small outpost of civilisation set atop a great wilderness.
During summer, Myrdal bustles with activity. It is the lifeline that connects Flåm to Oslo and Bergen, the two main cities in Norway. You will meet people from all walks of life and all ages: tourists, hikers, cyclists, campers.
At this point you are faced with a choice. You can take the train back to Flåm or if you have the guts, you can walk down the valley. The latter choice is definitively the most rewarding. The path is 21km long but it is always a downhill trod. If you are to walk, make sure that you have comfortable walking shoes, a snack-filled rucksack and a good raincoat.
Take the old service-road that winds its way down the valley. Don’t be upset if the day starts off dull and overcast. Often, when the sun rises fully, the low clouds are blown away and the day brightens up when you least expect it.
If you are intent on enjoying nature at its best, then Flåm is a goldmine. Most tourists catch the Flåmsbana railway at Myrdal, go down to Flåm, and then board a ferry or cruise to some other part of Norway, missing out on the beautiful country that shelters Flåm. Why not go against the trend and follow the train trip against the tourist tide? Board the Flåmsbana at the bottom of the valley from Flåm and enjoy the steep ascent to Myrdal. As the train starts off in a slow rumbling ascent along Flåmsdale, you will see quaint, colourful timber houses, nestled on the meadows at the bottom of the valley. The frothy waters of the river add a perfect touch to this idyll. Crane your neck and you will glimpse the lofty peaks, veiled in shawls of white, tufty clouds.
The train’s horn sounds like an animal call echoing through the high-walled valley. Its smooth pace will enable you to tuck in as much of the scenery as you could possibly digest. There is enough of it to numb the senses. Lofty, ice-capped peaks; sheer, tree-clad mountainsides; raging streams; gushing waterfalls – it is a place where nature has concentrated enough of its wild beauty to stun the most discerning visitor.
The journey will take your through a number of tunnels hewn into the mountainsides. Each time the train pops out from a tunnel, you will realise that you are one step closer to the peak. If you happen to notice a tiny train station perched atop one of these peaks, you can rest assured that Myrdal station is close by.
When the train comes to a sudden halt, you’ll be in for a surprise. Disembark upon the wooden viewing platform and you’ll have a close encounter with Kjosfossen waterfall. It is nature at its most powerful. Tons of water plummet every second down a sheer drop of ninety-three metres, to shatter on the rocks below. The water roars louder than an aeroplane engine and colossal clouds of spray fume out of the gurgling waters to envelop you in a cool cloud.
From Kjosfossen the train winds its way up to slide smoothly into Myrdal station, a small outpost of civilisation set atop a great wilderness.
During summer, Myrdal bustles with activity. It is the lifeline that connects Flåm to Oslo and Bergen, the two main cities in Norway. You will meet people from all walks of life and all ages: tourists, hikers, cyclists, campers.
At this point you are faced with a choice. You can take the train back to Flåm or if you have the guts, you can walk down the valley. The latter choice is definitively the most rewarding. The path is 21km long but it is always a downhill trod. If you are to walk, make sure that you have comfortable walking shoes, a snack-filled rucksack and a good raincoat.
Take the old service-road that winds its way down the valley. Don’t be upset if the day starts off dull and overcast. Often, when the sun rises fully, the low clouds are blown away and the day brightens up when you least expect it.
If you’re not a tough walker, just keep the train tickets handy and if you get too tired you can hop on the train going back to Flåm from any of the nine intermediate stations. But don’t underestimate the revitalising effect that nature might have on your body and mind – it works wonders. Rambling amidst an inspiring collage of roaring waterspouts, angry gorges, lofty summits and lush meadows, your feet are unlikely to complain.
If you’re a social type, you’ll be happy to know that you are likely to meet interesting people rambling or cycling their way down, and maybe a few crazy ones going up too!
The walk down to the mouth of Aurlandsfjord should take around six hours of leisurely walking. During the last part of the trip, you will reach Flåm church, standing guard over colourful, bijou houses, whose hedges are trimmed to perfection and gardens tended lovingly. You will notice that the river will have changed its schizophrenic identity from the narrow, angry snake, up-valley, to a wider, tranquil sheet that mirrors subtly its surroundings.
Enjoy the sweet weariness after the long walk by spending the evening in Flåm, relaxing to the sight of the fjord painted in the exquisite colours of the Norwegian twilight.
If the walk along the valley is too much for you, you can opt for shorter, less tiring hikes. For instance you can walk four kilometres along the fjord to Otterness, a collection of old farm buildings perched on the flank of a hill between Flåm and the town of Aurland. The buildings date from the 18th century and are being used to display traditional Norwegian crafts and cuisine. Keep in mind that the displays are closed on Sundays.
The walk is worth every ounce of energy spent. From its lofty position, aided by a sunny day, you will be rewarded with astonishing vistas of Aurlandsfjord. Flåm will appear as a tiny Lilliput miniature while the white cruise-boats look like dinky toys floating on the fjord’s mirror waters. Let yourself go and spend a few hours’ rest sprawled on the grassy terrace of Otterness, feasting your senses.
If you like rambling and are inspired by nature, a summer visit to Flåm will certainly exceed your expectations. Dramatic scenery, exciting activities and friendly people make it a spot worth lingering in. Flåm is also the ideal starting point for seaborne travels along Sognefjord. It is the departure point for cruises to other parts of Sognefjord and a fast ferry travels daily all along the 200-kilometre fjord to Bergen, on the west coast, with many intermediate destinations that are worth exploring.
Some useful websites:
www.visitflam.com (tourist information website)
www.flamsbana.no (for information, timetables and bookings of the Myrdal – Flåm train journey)
If you’re a social type, you’ll be happy to know that you are likely to meet interesting people rambling or cycling their way down, and maybe a few crazy ones going up too!
The walk down to the mouth of Aurlandsfjord should take around six hours of leisurely walking. During the last part of the trip, you will reach Flåm church, standing guard over colourful, bijou houses, whose hedges are trimmed to perfection and gardens tended lovingly. You will notice that the river will have changed its schizophrenic identity from the narrow, angry snake, up-valley, to a wider, tranquil sheet that mirrors subtly its surroundings.
Enjoy the sweet weariness after the long walk by spending the evening in Flåm, relaxing to the sight of the fjord painted in the exquisite colours of the Norwegian twilight.
If the walk along the valley is too much for you, you can opt for shorter, less tiring hikes. For instance you can walk four kilometres along the fjord to Otterness, a collection of old farm buildings perched on the flank of a hill between Flåm and the town of Aurland. The buildings date from the 18th century and are being used to display traditional Norwegian crafts and cuisine. Keep in mind that the displays are closed on Sundays.
The walk is worth every ounce of energy spent. From its lofty position, aided by a sunny day, you will be rewarded with astonishing vistas of Aurlandsfjord. Flåm will appear as a tiny Lilliput miniature while the white cruise-boats look like dinky toys floating on the fjord’s mirror waters. Let yourself go and spend a few hours’ rest sprawled on the grassy terrace of Otterness, feasting your senses.
If you like rambling and are inspired by nature, a summer visit to Flåm will certainly exceed your expectations. Dramatic scenery, exciting activities and friendly people make it a spot worth lingering in. Flåm is also the ideal starting point for seaborne travels along Sognefjord. It is the departure point for cruises to other parts of Sognefjord and a fast ferry travels daily all along the 200-kilometre fjord to Bergen, on the west coast, with many intermediate destinations that are worth exploring.
Some useful websites:
www.visitflam.com (tourist information website)
www.flamsbana.no (for information, timetables and bookings of the Myrdal – Flåm train journey)