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Valletta – Malta’s Capital City - A Guide
Valletta is a genie’s lamp. Whether you are a must-see-it-all freak or a hang-loose wanderer,
Malta’s capital city is the definite place where to satisfy your whims.
(First published in BMIBaby inflight magazine)
by Richard Zahra
Valletta is a pocket-sized city with a monumental history. Built by the Knights of Malta in the late 16th century, it retains an air of Baroque grandeur. UNESCO has in fact declared it a World Heritage Site. With its ring of massive bastions filled in by a chequerboard plan of edifices, Valletta stands at the heart of the Grand Harbour. It is so compact that you can walk its length in fifteen minutes. Nevertheless, it is packed with every imaginable urban treat – opulent buildings, bustling piazzas, busy shops and quaint bastion gardens with drop-jaw views, to name a few. The city is currently undergoing an ambitious restoration project under the direction of the world-renowned architect Renzo Piano.
01 First Time Visitors
The knights who built Valletta were a multinational lot. This city has been born cosmopolitan!
DAYTIME: Approaching Valletta by sea will make you fall head over heels for it. Join Captain Morgan Harbour Cruise to be entertained by the grand stories associated with this spectacular sea haven. (Dolphin Court, Tigné Seafront, Sliema, tel: +356 23463333, http://www.captainmorgan.com.mt/)
LUNCH BREAK: For starters in Maltese cuisine, take a table at Papannis Restaurant. Enjoy a traditional mouth-watering rabbit dish and glean some local cooking tips through the open kitchen. (55 Strait Street, tel: +356 2722 0031).
AFTER DARK: Step down to the ancient vaults of Trabuxu Wine Bar. With over 400 wines in the cellar, you’ll be spoilt for choice. You might also opt for the chic Trabuxu Bistro across the street. (1 Strait Street, tel: +356 2122 3036).
SHOPPING: Republic Street, Valletta’s main pedestrian thoroughfare, is lined with shops of all kinds, as are most of the side streets. There are over 1200 licensed shops packed within the city walls. Anything you dream of, you can buy in Valletta.
HOTEL: For a lavish first acquaintance with the noble city, check in at the illustrious Phoenicia Hotel, the place that has hosted royalty and celebrities. Ambling in the hotel’s spectacular bastion garden, you might be inspired to become the Hemingway of the new millennium. The original was one of the many distinguished guests. (The Mall, Floriana, tel: +356 21235254, http://www.phoeniciamalta.com/).
The knights who built Valletta were a multinational lot. This city has been born cosmopolitan!
DAYTIME: Approaching Valletta by sea will make you fall head over heels for it. Join Captain Morgan Harbour Cruise to be entertained by the grand stories associated with this spectacular sea haven. (Dolphin Court, Tigné Seafront, Sliema, tel: +356 23463333, http://www.captainmorgan.com.mt/)
LUNCH BREAK: For starters in Maltese cuisine, take a table at Papannis Restaurant. Enjoy a traditional mouth-watering rabbit dish and glean some local cooking tips through the open kitchen. (55 Strait Street, tel: +356 2722 0031).
AFTER DARK: Step down to the ancient vaults of Trabuxu Wine Bar. With over 400 wines in the cellar, you’ll be spoilt for choice. You might also opt for the chic Trabuxu Bistro across the street. (1 Strait Street, tel: +356 2122 3036).
SHOPPING: Republic Street, Valletta’s main pedestrian thoroughfare, is lined with shops of all kinds, as are most of the side streets. There are over 1200 licensed shops packed within the city walls. Anything you dream of, you can buy in Valletta.
HOTEL: For a lavish first acquaintance with the noble city, check in at the illustrious Phoenicia Hotel, the place that has hosted royalty and celebrities. Ambling in the hotel’s spectacular bastion garden, you might be inspired to become the Hemingway of the new millennium. The original was one of the many distinguished guests. (The Mall, Floriana, tel: +356 21235254, http://www.phoeniciamalta.com/).
02 Culture Vultures
If cultural spots thrill you, walk the streets of Valletta with extreme caution – you might get multiple orgasms!
DAYTIME: Valletta’s opulent edifices are steeped in history. However, no structure encapsulates the Baroque essence of the city so well as St John’s co-cathedral. The Knights of St John spared no expense in its interior decoration. Caravaggio’s masterpiece – The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist – is the envy of museums all over the world. (http://www.stjohnscocathedral.com/).
LUNCH BREAK: Step back into the days of whiskered gentlemen and lofty ladies. Dine at Caffé Cordina, one of the oldest cafés in Europe. Italian Presidents are very fond of this time-honoured establishment. Maybe it’s the lure of Giuseppe Cali’s frescoes in the vaulted hall! (244 Republic Street, tel: +356 2123 4385, http://www.caffecordina.com/).
AFTER DARK: Check out what’s running at the Manoel Theatre, one of Europe’s oldest working theatres. This year’s highlight will be the opera Lucia di Lammermoor, which will be performed in March. (115 Triq it-Teatru l-Antik, tel: +356 21222618, http://www.teatrumanoel.com.mt/).
SHOPPING: For genuine Maltese hand crafted items, visit Joseph Busuttil. Look for handmade lace, filigree silver and Gozo glass articles manufactured by the best local artisans. (222 Merchants Street, tel: +356 21243241, http://www.jbusuttil.com/).
HOTEL: Grand Hotel Excelsior stands on the doorstep of Valletta, with views over the Baroque city and parts of the harbour. Unwind in this lavish, culturally oriented hotel; a good base from which to explore the historic spots not only of Valletta, but of the whole Maltese Islands. (Great Siege Road, Floriana, tel: +356 2125 0520, http://www.excelsior.com.mt/).
If cultural spots thrill you, walk the streets of Valletta with extreme caution – you might get multiple orgasms!
DAYTIME: Valletta’s opulent edifices are steeped in history. However, no structure encapsulates the Baroque essence of the city so well as St John’s co-cathedral. The Knights of St John spared no expense in its interior decoration. Caravaggio’s masterpiece – The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist – is the envy of museums all over the world. (http://www.stjohnscocathedral.com/).
LUNCH BREAK: Step back into the days of whiskered gentlemen and lofty ladies. Dine at Caffé Cordina, one of the oldest cafés in Europe. Italian Presidents are very fond of this time-honoured establishment. Maybe it’s the lure of Giuseppe Cali’s frescoes in the vaulted hall! (244 Republic Street, tel: +356 2123 4385, http://www.caffecordina.com/).
AFTER DARK: Check out what’s running at the Manoel Theatre, one of Europe’s oldest working theatres. This year’s highlight will be the opera Lucia di Lammermoor, which will be performed in March. (115 Triq it-Teatru l-Antik, tel: +356 21222618, http://www.teatrumanoel.com.mt/).
SHOPPING: For genuine Maltese hand crafted items, visit Joseph Busuttil. Look for handmade lace, filigree silver and Gozo glass articles manufactured by the best local artisans. (222 Merchants Street, tel: +356 21243241, http://www.jbusuttil.com/).
HOTEL: Grand Hotel Excelsior stands on the doorstep of Valletta, with views over the Baroque city and parts of the harbour. Unwind in this lavish, culturally oriented hotel; a good base from which to explore the historic spots not only of Valletta, but of the whole Maltese Islands. (Great Siege Road, Floriana, tel: +356 2125 0520, http://www.excelsior.com.mt/).
03 Families and Children
Malta is one of the safest places on Earth, and we all know that peace of mind is a must for a grand family holiday!
DAYTIME: Head to Popeye Village, the film set of Popeye (1980, starring Robin Williams) now turned into theme park. Spend a family day packed with fun activities; entertained by Popeye, Olive and all the other film characters! Enjoy your 15 minutes of fame by starring in the ‘Bar Brawl’ film shoot and take home the DVD to show it to your friends. (Anchor Bay, Mellieha, tel: +356 21524782/3/4, http://www.popeyemalta.com/, bus connection – destination Mellieha Bay then connecting bus to Popeye Village).
LUNCH BREAK: Tuck in a delicious Mediterranean dish at Seafarers Restaurant overlooking the scenic cove at Anchor Bay. Alternatively, loosen up at the family-oriented Diner’s, where you can eat peacefully while your young ones have the time of their lives at the Romp Around hall. (Anchor Bay, Mellieha, tel: +356 21524782/3/4, http://www.popeyemalta.com/)
AFTER DARK: When the sun sets, stroll along the Valletta Waterfront, a façade of newly restored Baroque warehouses that date back 250 years. These have been converted into establishments that provide leisure and entertainment to people of all ages.
(Pinto Wharf Floriana, tel: +356 2567 3000, http://www.vallettawaterfront.com/).
SHOPPING: Clamus Center is the shop where your little dears can order special gifts – mugs, t-shirts, caps, frames, magnets, mousemats – and have their personal motifs or favourite pictures printed on them. (35 Melita Street, tel: +356 21225637, http://www.clamus.com/).
HOTEL: Settle your tiny clan at the venerable Castille Hotel. It is conveniently located for wandering around and offers stunning views over the Grand Harbour. Families are in for a big treat because up to two children (under 18) sharing their parents’ room will be hosted for free. (Castille Square, tel: +356 21243677/8, http://www.hotelcastillemalta.com/).
Malta is one of the safest places on Earth, and we all know that peace of mind is a must for a grand family holiday!
DAYTIME: Head to Popeye Village, the film set of Popeye (1980, starring Robin Williams) now turned into theme park. Spend a family day packed with fun activities; entertained by Popeye, Olive and all the other film characters! Enjoy your 15 minutes of fame by starring in the ‘Bar Brawl’ film shoot and take home the DVD to show it to your friends. (Anchor Bay, Mellieha, tel: +356 21524782/3/4, http://www.popeyemalta.com/, bus connection – destination Mellieha Bay then connecting bus to Popeye Village).
LUNCH BREAK: Tuck in a delicious Mediterranean dish at Seafarers Restaurant overlooking the scenic cove at Anchor Bay. Alternatively, loosen up at the family-oriented Diner’s, where you can eat peacefully while your young ones have the time of their lives at the Romp Around hall. (Anchor Bay, Mellieha, tel: +356 21524782/3/4, http://www.popeyemalta.com/)
AFTER DARK: When the sun sets, stroll along the Valletta Waterfront, a façade of newly restored Baroque warehouses that date back 250 years. These have been converted into establishments that provide leisure and entertainment to people of all ages.
(Pinto Wharf Floriana, tel: +356 2567 3000, http://www.vallettawaterfront.com/).
SHOPPING: Clamus Center is the shop where your little dears can order special gifts – mugs, t-shirts, caps, frames, magnets, mousemats – and have their personal motifs or favourite pictures printed on them. (35 Melita Street, tel: +356 21225637, http://www.clamus.com/).
HOTEL: Settle your tiny clan at the venerable Castille Hotel. It is conveniently located for wandering around and offers stunning views over the Grand Harbour. Families are in for a big treat because up to two children (under 18) sharing their parents’ room will be hosted for free. (Castille Square, tel: +356 21243677/8, http://www.hotelcastillemalta.com/).
04 On a Budget
If your budget is tight, Valletta can ease your plight.
DAYTIME: If your holiday coincides with the Carnival (March) you can enjoy this celebration of frolics without paying a cent. Most carnival activities are held in Valletta, whose streets will be ablaze with extravagantly coloured floats and costumes of all shapes and sizes. (Malta Tourism Authority, Auberge D’Italie, Merchants Str, +356 22915000, http://www.mta.com.mt/).
LUNCH BREAK: Wander into Café Jubilee where you’ll get a wide selection of tasty dishes at very reasonable prices. (125 St Lucia Street, tel: +356 21252332, http://www.cafejubilee.com/).
AFTER DARK: Step down to La Cave, the bowels of a 16th century palace cellar, where you can have one of the tastiest pizzas in Malta and a good glass of local wine to wash it down – all at a very reasonable price. (Castille Square, tel: +356 21220161).
SHOPPING: On a Sunday morning, stroll along the flea market (in Maltese – Monti) held near the bus terminus. This is the biggest open air market in Malta, with all kinds of knickknacks for sale. Every hawker will swear he’s being ripped off, but if you haggle skilfully, you might even get a bargain on the bargain.
HOTEL: If your cash flow’s on the ebb, book in at Asti Pensione (Guesthouse). You can have breakfast, a very clean bedroom and a shiny shared bathroom for only €20 a day. (18 St Ursula Street, tel: +356 21239506, +356 21227483).
If your budget is tight, Valletta can ease your plight.
DAYTIME: If your holiday coincides with the Carnival (March) you can enjoy this celebration of frolics without paying a cent. Most carnival activities are held in Valletta, whose streets will be ablaze with extravagantly coloured floats and costumes of all shapes and sizes. (Malta Tourism Authority, Auberge D’Italie, Merchants Str, +356 22915000, http://www.mta.com.mt/).
LUNCH BREAK: Wander into Café Jubilee where you’ll get a wide selection of tasty dishes at very reasonable prices. (125 St Lucia Street, tel: +356 21252332, http://www.cafejubilee.com/).
AFTER DARK: Step down to La Cave, the bowels of a 16th century palace cellar, where you can have one of the tastiest pizzas in Malta and a good glass of local wine to wash it down – all at a very reasonable price. (Castille Square, tel: +356 21220161).
SHOPPING: On a Sunday morning, stroll along the flea market (in Maltese – Monti) held near the bus terminus. This is the biggest open air market in Malta, with all kinds of knickknacks for sale. Every hawker will swear he’s being ripped off, but if you haggle skilfully, you might even get a bargain on the bargain.
HOTEL: If your cash flow’s on the ebb, book in at Asti Pensione (Guesthouse). You can have breakfast, a very clean bedroom and a shiny shared bathroom for only €20 a day. (18 St Ursula Street, tel: +356 21239506, +356 21227483).
05 Outdoorsy
Types Malta in wintertime and early spring is a rambler’s paradise.
DAYTIME: For a short walk back in time, go down the narrow, worn stairway opposite the Mediterranean Conference Centre and walk beneath Fort St Elmo, scene of carnage during the 1565 Siege of Malta. The damaged breakwater was the site of a daring Italian E-boat attack in 1941. For some serious hiking visit: http://www.visitmalta.com/e-brochures to download free walking guides.
LUNCH BREAK: Malta has no mountains to climb but at De Robertis rooftop restaurant you can boast that you’ve eaten a hearty Mediterranean meal at the highest public-accessible point in Valletta. (Castille Square, tel: +356 21220173).
AFTER DARK: Valletta’s bastion gardens at night are a visual feast. Upper and Lower Barrakka Gardens present breathtaking views across the harbour to the Three Cities, including gallant Fort St Angelo, seat of the Order of St John. Hastings Gardens grant sprawling views of Floriana, Marsamxett Harbour, Manoel Island and Sliema seafront.
SHOPPING: The ferry crossing from Valletta to Sliema takes less than 5 minutes and costs less than €1. Sliema brims with modern shops and shopping complexes like Tigné Point and Plaza Shopping Centre, where you can browse for outdoor gear.
(Marsamxetto Ferry Service, tel: 23463862, http://www.captainmorgan.com.mt/).
HOTEL: The British Hotel is the longest-established family-run hotel in Valletta. It is unpretentious but charming, offering affordable rates, a friendly service and above all, absolutely the best views on the Grand Harbour. After a hard day’s slog, nothing beats sipping an espresso in one of the hotel balconies. Steven Spielberg chose the British as a filming location during the shooting of Munich. (40 Battery Str, tel: +356 21224730, +356 21239022/3, http://www.britishhotel.com/).
Types Malta in wintertime and early spring is a rambler’s paradise.
DAYTIME: For a short walk back in time, go down the narrow, worn stairway opposite the Mediterranean Conference Centre and walk beneath Fort St Elmo, scene of carnage during the 1565 Siege of Malta. The damaged breakwater was the site of a daring Italian E-boat attack in 1941. For some serious hiking visit: http://www.visitmalta.com/e-brochures to download free walking guides.
LUNCH BREAK: Malta has no mountains to climb but at De Robertis rooftop restaurant you can boast that you’ve eaten a hearty Mediterranean meal at the highest public-accessible point in Valletta. (Castille Square, tel: +356 21220173).
AFTER DARK: Valletta’s bastion gardens at night are a visual feast. Upper and Lower Barrakka Gardens present breathtaking views across the harbour to the Three Cities, including gallant Fort St Angelo, seat of the Order of St John. Hastings Gardens grant sprawling views of Floriana, Marsamxett Harbour, Manoel Island and Sliema seafront.
SHOPPING: The ferry crossing from Valletta to Sliema takes less than 5 minutes and costs less than €1. Sliema brims with modern shops and shopping complexes like Tigné Point and Plaza Shopping Centre, where you can browse for outdoor gear.
(Marsamxetto Ferry Service, tel: 23463862, http://www.captainmorgan.com.mt/).
HOTEL: The British Hotel is the longest-established family-run hotel in Valletta. It is unpretentious but charming, offering affordable rates, a friendly service and above all, absolutely the best views on the Grand Harbour. After a hard day’s slog, nothing beats sipping an espresso in one of the hotel balconies. Steven Spielberg chose the British as a filming location during the shooting of Munich. (40 Battery Str, tel: +356 21224730, +356 21239022/3, http://www.britishhotel.com/).